Saturday, January 31, 2009

More about the things you see when you walk...

Bom Dia Everyone,
 
Ozell and I were in a small mountain town of Lencois, Brazil for the last 3-4 days.  We did not have very good internet access while we were there.  I could not send or receive any e-mails except for three which turned out to be quite opportune since they were to Chris and about our Carnival plans.  I still do not have internet access now that we are back in Salvador even though Ozell does.  I hope there is not something wrong with my computer.  My point is that I apologize that there will be a slew of posts from me that show up all at one time and which will not post in the correct chronological order.  Not that is super critical in itself.
 
Back to this post...  As Ozell mentioned in his post which has already posted, we spent a few days in Lencois.  Read Ozell's post for a description of the town.
 
I just wanted to show you another example of the things you see when you take walks.  The pic attached to this post was of a spontaneous "cute" animal scene I happened to come across on a stroll through the streets of Lencois.  If I were a better photographer, I am sure a more artistic picture could have been taken.  It also sucks because the original scene that befell my eyes was that of a cat sitting next to a dog sitting next to another cat in the window sill.  They all had the same pose where they were sitting on their asses and back legs while holding their heads up with their front legs erect.  On top of that, they were all looking in profile in the same direction.  It was pretty damn cool looking.  Unfortunately, by the time I could get my camera out of my pocket, a street dog had arrived and started barking at the dog in the window which responded in kind.  This disturbed one of the cats enough to jump down from the window sill.  So I only could snap the picture that you see which does have its own merits, but is not as cute as the one I was hoping to capture....
 
Ciao for now,
 
 
 
 

Nova Schin!- or how we were almost in a Brazilian beer commercial.

Hello Everyone,
Probably my favorite thing about taking the extended trips that I take is just walking in whatever location I happen to be. I rarely prefer to take public transportation of any sort. Buses are better than subways because at least you can see out the windows of the buses. I would rather walk 10 km through a city than take a cab. I really like walking because it is when I see the things that provide the local color of the city or town. It is when I see the things that make me laugh, smile, amused, interested, enlightened, disheartened, disappointed, and a host of other emotional states.
Admittedly, in the case of the attached pic to this post, we did not have to walk very far. When Ozell and I were staying in the pousada in Salvador with the ocean view, just few steps outside our door step a Nova Schin (Brazilian beer) commercial was being staged and filmed. The attached picture really sucks and does not do justice to the scene in the small cobblestoned square. There were samba dancers, devils, punk rockers, business professionals, wrestlers, Liberace pianos, soccer players, Carnivalers, and a host of other people in costumes. All I could gather is that the theme was every demographic enjoys and has fun with Nova Schin!
I really wish I had better pictures showing the people in costumes. They were pretty ornate and interesting.
Anyways, I thought to myself that it would be really cool if we could finagle our way into the commercials as extras in the street parade. But they didn't have any extras. Everyone in the commercial had a specific part to play. It also probably didn't help that we were carrying a twelve pack of Skol which is another Brazilian beer, and I would surmise the chief competitor of Nova Schin. LOL
Cheers,

An adorable 4-year old boy or a hardened criminal? I bet you couldn't tell either...

I am running behind on posts because we have had some very inconsistent internet access the last week. I am trying to get caught up so there are going to be multiple posts showing up from Ozell and me.
This post goes back to when Ozell and I were sitting on the main square in Salvador during the late afternoon. We were having a couple beers in what amounts to a beer garden on the square. Many locals will set up and stock their individual booths with beer and liquor and then operate a small bar out of them on the public square. They fight over customers, but they share the common tables and chairs. At the time Ozell and I were sitting at one of the tables, there was barely anyone else sitting down. In fact, the attached picture was taken just a few minutes prior to the following episode. The event happened at the table with blue chairs seen over Ozell's right shoulder. The people to the left of this table in the picture had departed by the time of the incident, but a group of three locals had sat down at the table prior to the event.
A few tables away there was a boy who could not have been more than four years old. He was shirtless and sloppily eating a sandwich. I thought he was cute and figured he must have been one the bar workers' child. After finishing his sandwich, he sat at the table for many minutes just watching and playing with the crumbs he spilled on the table. He looked at Ozell and me but not any more often than I would look at him. He finally got up and slowly started wandering through the scattered and entangled tables and chairs. At the other end of this area, a group of three locals had sat down to enjoy a refreshing beverage themselves. After a few minutes of winding his way through the tables, the boy had come to within about ten feet of the locals sitting down. He continued to just look at the rocks on the ground or gaze in far off directions, but then he made his move!
With an energy and vigor of a mini lightening bolt, he darted towards the arm of one of the local men. This man was one of the many locals who tried to sell tourists trinkets and charms that he carried in his hand. The boy gripped these trinkets and tried to run away with them. However, the trinkets were still in the man's hand and wrist, and his reflexes were still sharp enough to respond successfully. In a split second, the boy realized he was not going to be able to steal anything and darted off into the expanse of the square.
The local man had arisen from his seat and scolded (or cursed) at the boy as he darted away. Then his eye turned to another boy who stood behind a nearby light pole. This boy was older and about ten or so. The local deduced (and I believe he correctly deduced) that this older boy was the "teacher" of the younger. He was overseeing the operation from a short distance. He may even been providing signals to the four year old on whom to target and what to try to grab. The local man was more vocal and scolding towards the older boy, who after a few seconds, walked away relatively non-chalantly.
In a manner of 20 seconds the entire episode was over- from the initial grab-n-dash to the scolding of the older boy. The local just sat back down at the table with his two friends and continued imbibing his cold beverage which I imagine tasted either better or worse than before depending on whether he was happy to successfully fend off an attempted robbery or whether he was pissed that the attempt was made at all. Ozell's back was turned towards the attempted theft so he did not have a good view. But that is when we realized that the cute little four-year old, was nothing more than a predator. Much like a young lion honing its skills in the savannah. He watched his prey from distance making sure not to be noticed. We are sure he was mentally scanning the both of us, but we did not have anything easy to grab. Today, Ozell and I were healthy gazelles and not easy prey. He did spot the young or sick wildeebeast not too far away. He took his time and slowly stalked closer to his prey again taking care not to be noticed. Then when he was in striking distance, he pounced! But this wildeebeast was just a little too agile for his undeveloped skills and was able to get away.
But for him that is okay... He will live to hunt another day. And his teacher, probably his own older brother, will help him refine his hunting prowess. There will be plenty of wildeebeasts and gazelles that fall in his claws in the years to come.....
So I ask you again... An adorable 4-year old boy or hardened criminal? I still bet you wouldn't be able to tell either.
Cheers,
Sean

Friday, January 30, 2009

Candomble- The religion of Bahia...

Let's Invoke the Gods! The gods of Candomble...
Salvador is the capital of Bahia, and Bahia is the heart of the Afro-Brazilian culture. One of the most visible indications of this is the prominence of the Candomble religion here. I am not very knowledgeable about this religion so I would suggest you look up more information online if you are interested. It is related to Santeria, Voodoo, and other New World African religions, but it is also different. Like those religions it is infused with a combination of Christianity and traditional African tribal beliefs. Often the Christian aspects are Christian in name only as the slaves needed acceptable cover for their African beliefs in order to be able to practice their religion without persecution from their white Christian masters.
Ozell and I attended a Candomble ceremony in one of the favelas of Salvador. If you do not know what a "favela" is, then I would again direct you to seek more information online. (I love the modern age). But a readily identifiable definition would be "Brazilian / South American urban slum". Attending one of these ceremonies has become an event on many tourists' activity list in Bahia. The Cultural Department of Bahia even promotes them on brochures and fliers in the hotels, hostels, etc. Ozell and I were "guided" by a local woman Cynthia into attending our particular ceremony. Cynthia was a early middle aged woman who camped out in the outdoor section of one of the restaurants lining a public square in Centro Historico, Salvador. At first, we thought she was just an overly friendly woman who decided to engage us in conversation as we were waiting on our food. Cynthia speaks four languages fluently and was busy translating this restaurant's menu into German and Spanish for the owner who was her friend. She learned languages by working as an Au Pair (sp) in Europe when she was younger. She is also a lesbian and has had a wife for the last 25 years or so. She has two grown daughters via adoption and now is a grandmother of two granddaughters. She is a genuinely nice lady. But we also quickly realized (Ozell more quickly than me), that she supplements her income by using her language skills to talk to tourists and then direct them into some local activities such as attending a Candomble ceremony or taking a tour up the coast to some beaches and an ecological park. So that is how we found our way into watching a Candomble ceremony.
The ceremony started around 8pm at night. The "hall" was in a favela, and I'll just say the poor are really poor in Brazil. The ceremony is comprised of the participants and the congregation. The participants wear white clothes, and everyone in attendance it asked to wear light colored clothes and to remove earrings, watches, and shoes. The participants are evenly male and female. They wear beads around their neck and over their shoulders according to their experience and rank in the church hierarchy. There is one man who serves as the leader of the ceremony and maybe the church. I do not know if this religion is as patriarchal and misogynistic as the Catholic Church where only a human being who was born with a penis is fit to lead the ceremony. The ceremony consists of several rituals that prepare the participants to potentially enter a trance. Many of the usual neurological cues are used to induce this state: aroma cues including incense and fragrant botanicals, aural cues including repetitive chants and rhythmic drumming, social cues including fellow participants sharing in and reinforcing your beliefs and desires, and movement cues including ritual dancing. Not too much time passes before some of the participants begin to break into individualized movements- which are usually jerky and uncoordinated compared to the group dancing. Their eyes become glazed over and they appear to be unaware of their surroundings. They are allowed to continue to enter deeper into a trance state while those who have yet to reach that precipice continue to dance in a circle and chant attempting to enter a trance themselves. One of the church leader's responsibilities appears to be to determine which participants have truly entered a trance state. Some never even got close. Others appeared to be on the edge. Those who were deemed to be in a trance were directed upstairs and into another room.
The purpose of this ceremony was to invoke one of the gods. They believe in a mixture of pagan gods and Christian saints. The invoked god/goddess then descends upon those who are in a trance. Ozell and I were a little befuddled with the props that went along with this particular god. Unfortunately, we do not speak any Portuguese so we really could not follow along on the details of the ceremony. But those participants who had entered a trance came back to the main hall dressed as cowboys and smoking cigars- both the men and women alike. I kid you not. Hahahaha Then we arrived at what appeared to be the main point of the ceremony... The congregants and public were now welcomed to meet with one of the entranced participants to seek the blessing, advice, and or spiritual energy of the invoked god/goddess to help with their personal problems and questions. Some of the congregants were overwhelmed by the exchange of energy and become entranced themselves. Some left with smiles and tears of joy. Some left with frowns and faces of shock. It did not appear that everyone received the news they were hoping for.
It would be another long post in order to begin to discuss my opinion on Candomble. I will say it would not serve my spiritual concerns, but it seems to be less damaging to society than the three major monotheistic religions have been I also respect Candomble (and other New World African religions) for holding onto and incorporating their African heritage into their religion despite the harsh punishment they were subjected to by their European owners. I am interested in knowing why slaves in the States took the completely opposite path and became some of the most fanatical adherents to evangelical christianity- their owners' religion used to partially justify their very enslavement.
Cheers for now,
Sean

Wednesday, January 28, 2009

Streams and Mosquitoes, but no Diamonds

Ah, the beauty of nature.  We arrived last night in Lençóis, Brazil, an old diamond mining town of about 8,000 residents, and the starting point for tours of the Chapada Diamantina National Park.  Lençóis is a six-hour bus ride west of Salvador and we will stay here for a few days to do a little hiking and communing with nature. There isn't much mining going on in the town now, but a diamond boom started around 1844 and lasted until huge diamond deposits were discovered in South Africa around 1880, at which point Lençóis was pretty much deserted.  One of the interesting geological facts I read about the diamonds in Lençóis is that they were formed near present-day Namibia, which would have been right next to the Brazilian state of Bahia back when all the continents comprised the one supercontinent Pangea.  And since Namibia is just north of South Africa, people searching during those boom years were traveling the globe to exploit diamonds that were probably all initially part of one huge deposit, but only separated from each other by continental drift over the course of millions of years.  It sounds like many of the diamonds found in Lençóis were of industrial quality rather than gemstone quality, so I'm sure that also contributed to the relatively short boom in Lençóis.  Ultimately, many of the industrial diamonds from Lençóis were used to dig the Panama Canal and the London Underground among other places. 
 
Anyway, back to the present day, the Chapada Diamantina National Park was established here around 1985 in response to growing ecotourism.  The park is known for it's natural beauty, including many streams, waterfalls, mountains, monoliths, and caves.  I'm sure I'll have more to say about it once I actually visit it, which we're doing tomorrow with an all-day tour consisting of about 14 km of hiking and visits to some of the main natural attractions in the park.  Nevertheless, the pictures in the brochures and online look amazing, so I'm really excited to see it.  I found an interesting LA Times travel article about the park online.  If you're into ecotourism or just curious, it's definitely worth a read [LINK].
 
One last note.  My best friend, Carsten, asked a while back why we were only hopping from big city to big city on this trip.  I explained that while it would be nice to see more of the countryside in South America, logistics often made it impractical, if not impossible, especially when you consider the time and expense factors.  I loved every minute of Iguazu Falls, but it was far out of the way and quite expensive compared to spending time in the city, especially if you want to do any activities.  Besides, as much as I love nature, I'm a city boy at heart and can only take the bugs and trees for limited periods of time.  Unfortunately, I'm allergic to trees, weeds, and most everything else that floats in the air in a natural environment; and the bugs... they're just relentless.  I'm a mosquito magnet and can't tell you how many times I've been bitten over the last few months and the bites for me are more than just a mere annoyance.  I've grown accustomed to spraying myself down with Off at sunset every night, because on the occasional night when I forget, I inevitably wake up the next day to huge, itchy bites on any exposed skin.  I awoke this morning to a mosquito bite on my forehead... again.  I'm willing to go through such inconveniences and annoyances for the simple pleasure of seeing some of the beautiful and amazing things that nature has to offer.  But you will NEVER see me living in a place like this. 
 
Cheers,
Ozell

Sipping The Blood Through a Straw

Hey Folks,
 
I just want to share a couple of random, non-related observations I've made after a month in Brazil.
 
Straws:  One of the most peculiar aspects of Brazilian culture is the use of straws and plastic cups.  People use straws to drink everything, whether the drink comes in a bottle or a can.  When you buy a can of soda from the store, they give you a straw.  When you see people walking down the street drinking, they are drinking whatever beverage it is, in whatever container it's in, through a straw.  In restaurants, soda and beer usually come in cans and bottles, rather than out of fountains or drafts, so they always serve your drink with a glass and of you order a soda they give you a straw.  Some restaurants even have straw holders on the tables, but you'll never find a pepper shaker in the whole restaurant.  On the beach, people drink their beer out of plastic cups rather than straight from the can.  I've even seen people sipping beer out of a can through a straw, like at the New Years Eve Party we attended in Florianopolis.  Now, where I come from, a man who needs a glass to drink his beer is a little queer; so I don't even want to know what the good old boys back home would have to say about a man who sips his beer through a straw.  Sadly, in a country that does not seem to care much about recycling, where people just throw their trash on the street or on the beach, the amount of plastic waste created by all these straws and cups is horrible for the environment. 
 
Street Preachers:  Evangelicals are alive and well in Brazil.  From Porto Alegre to Sao Paulo to Salvador, I haven't seen so many Evangelical churches concentrated in one place since I lived in Detroit.  The rest of South America may be Catholic Country, but the Evangelicals definitely have the largest market share in Brazil.  In Sao Paulo, we saw a couple of street preachers on the square outside of one of the famous Catholic churches.  It's like they're competing to see how many souls they can save.  Each had their own crowd gathered around, bible clutched in one hand or under their arm, as they preached about the "goodness of God".  I watched one preacher while I was waiting outside a subway stop.  He had the moves down, pacing back and forth, raising his hands and shouting Hallelujah, getting down on one knee every now and again, and shouting as loud as he could to anyone willing to listen.  It reminded me of my college days, when the radical preachers would spend their afternoons on the Diag, the main square in the middle of campus at UM, and tell all the students why they're all going to Hell.  Like then, most of the people on the street here just pass by ignoring the spectacle; others smile and laugh; while still few others mock and ridicule the preacher.  But he goes on preaching non-stop with everything he has as though it's the only thing he has to do in life.
 
The Evangelic church buildings also outnumber the Catholic churches by a large margin.  Not that most of them compare to the beauty and spender of even the most modest Catholic church; most of the Evangelical churches are converted buildings, what we refer to as store-front churches back home.  But in some cities, like Porto Alegre, you can find one every few blocks.  Like Detroit, it seems every preacher wants to have his own church, so rather than combining resources and having one large building to house a large congregation, you end up with a bunch of tiny church buildings that could only hold a small congregation.  There are still a few mega churches around Brazil; one of the largest we saw was in Salvador.  This place was on the scale of a Perfecting Church or Straight Gate Church in Detroit, or like The Rock in San Diego.  A huge, beautiful, modern facility that I'm sure holds thousands of people.  It's a strange contrast here, however, when you notice the favellas nearby, with their makeshift houses, tin roofs and tin shutters on windows that have no glass, steep hills, dirt roads and endless mounds of trash.  It seems poor people are desperate for hope in every country and no matter how little they have, they still find some way to give money to the church, and the church spends that money building a glorious house for God, while his people continue live in filth, under the promise and assumption that they will be rewarded for their sacrifices once they make it to Heaven.
 
I'm almost curious to visit one of these Evangelical churches to see if it's just like churches back home.  I won't understand much with the language barrier, but if it's like the churches back home, you don't have to understand the words to get the message since Evangelicals are so much more lively and spirited than Catholics.  Most of all, however, I'm just curious to see if they sip the blood of Jesus through a straw during Communion. 
 
Cheers,
Ozell

Friday, January 23, 2009

Why are hostels becoming so overpriced?...

Ozell and I stayed in a hostel our first two nights here in Salvador.  The hostel had an extraordinary high favorability rating.  It was in the heart of the Centro Historico district.  It was one of the cheapest (if not the cheapest) hostel we have stayed in on our trip- $12/night for a bed in a 6-bedroom dormitory.  I am sure the price is going to go up quickly though as soon as the word gets out about this hostel.  It just opened in late 2008, and they are not listed in the guidebooks yet.  They are listed on Hostelworld.com which is where Ozell found them.  Ozell does most of the work with the hostel bookings for a few reasons.  But that is not the point of this post.
 
We hated it.  Maybe "hate" is a strong word.  The owner and staff were very friendly and accommodating.  The free breakfast in the morning was the best that we have had at a hostel.  It had some charm and character although I felt the common spaces were a little claustrophobic.  The main reason we did not like the hostel is that each dormitory room had its own bathroom which had to be shared amongst all of the roommates.  That is why in this case we just to stay in the smallest dorm room they had- 6 person.  I hate this layout for a hostel for a variety of reasons...
 
First, one bathroom for even six people is too little.  I grew up with a family of six in a house with one bathroom.  Well, there was another unfinished one in the utility room in the basement, but nobody used that one.  This was hard enough when we were kids and didn't really need much bathroom time.  Thankfully, my parents moved into a bigger house once we were hitting our teens.  But for six adults who are getting up at the same time (because you are all cramped into bunk beds in a small room together so when one person gets up, everyone starts to get up) and typically going out at night at the same time, one fucking bathroom isn't even close to being sufficient.  You can easily waste an hour and a half of your day (twice a day) trying to get into the bathroom.  I couldn't even imagine what the one bathroom would be like for the 8 and 10-person dorms this hostel had.
 
Secondly, the bathrooms are attached to the interior of these small rooms.  Therefore, all of the unpleasant smells are waffed into the room every time someone takes a shit.  This also goes for the humidity of the showers.  And many times, someone shits and then takes a shower, so when then open the door to come out, you get the pleasure of heavy, dank air combined with innumerable particles of feces attached to the water vapor for the even more pleasant smell of ass.
 
Thirdly, the rest of the room is filled with strangers who may or may not be as considerate as you- most likely not as considerate.  Ozell was about to get a shower when a fat, nasty Irishman awoke in the morning.  Knowing that many people need to piss when they wake up, Ozell offered the Irishman to use the bathroom before him.  The Irishman accepted and then proceeded to undertake his complete morning regiment.  That is okay although I would have been more considerate and just pissed and waited my turn.  However, Ozell had the pleasure of walking into a closet (hostel bathrooms are about as small as physically possible to maximize bed space because more beds means more capacity which means more money) that stunk of fat Irishman beer shits and was completely flooded.  There was a shower area with a shower curtain, but obviously this guy did not think it was necessary to use the curtain at all.  The toilet seat was completely wet, the walls were drench, the floor was flooded so even if you were wearing your protective flip flops, you were bound to have Irishman pubic hairs and masturbated cum drippings floating onto and attaching to your feet.
 
All of these problems can be solved or significantly ameliorated with one design change... larger community bathrooms or independent bathrooms which are not assigned to a particular room of people.   Many hostels have these, and I think Ozell and I will only choose to stay in hostels that do from now on.  They may be unisex or divided into men's or women's.  The community bathrooms can be as small as three toilets, three showers, and two sinks.  This is enough to prevent waiting in all of the busiest of times for either a toilet or a shower or to brush your teeth.  Independent and community bathrooms also are not attached directly to a bedroom, therefore, their odors and humidity are confined to the bathroom itself.  There is no need to inhale other people's shit into your lungs when you are just trying to listen to your IPod while laying on your bed.  And since there are multiple toilet, shower, and sink options, other people's inconsideration can be mitigated.  If someone leaves a disgusting or clogged toilet, choose the next one.  If a shower befouled by someone else's man seed or a bitch's long hair stuck in the drain, choose the next one.  If a sink is unusable, choose the next one.  Most hostels are good about cleaning the bathrooms every day.
 
So- that was a long explanations as to why I do not understand why hostels have got so expensive.  For what you get sometimes, they are becoming very overpriced.  This last hostel was priced right for what you got.  But it will get more expensive.  But Ozell and I have found that we can often get a double room in a hotel for the same price as a hostel or just a little more.  Hostels often offer doubles with bathrooms and without bathrooms, but these are often hard to reserve because they are so sought after.  Additionally, they are not nearly as nice as a hotel.  The mattress is of low quality.  There is no private TV.  They are very tiny (again to maximize capacity).  There is a host of other things that make them inferior to hotels.  And that would be fine except they cost nearly or as much.  THAT IS THE PART THAT I DO NOT UNDERSTAND.
 
Yesterday, Ozell and I decided we needed to find another place- either a hostel that had community bathrooms or a hotel.  Because of the short notice, we were not having much luck.  We found some hotels, but they were out of our price range.  (Don't misunderstand my statements above about the affordability of hotels.  Obviously, you can spend as much money as you wish on a hotel room.  It is not always possible to find a hotel room the same price as a hostel, but it often is possible.  When you do find one, they are much better than what you get with a hostel).  Then I spotted a Pousada which was advertising rooms for $20 a night per person.  We checked it out.  We now have a fucking beautiful ocean view (minus the tankers because this is a port), a private kitchen, and private veranda, and private bathroom, and a TV.  We are paying a little more than the hostel we were in a couple of days ago, but we are paying less than the last three other hostels that we have stayed in.
 
The picture attached to this post is part of the view from our private veranda where Ozell and I relaxed nude in the sun and drank beers all afternoon yesterday....  SO WHY ARE YOU GODDAMN HOSTELS CHARGING SO MUCH FUCKING MONEY?
 
Cheers,
 
Sean 
 
 
 
 

Salvador's plentiful street drummings...

One of the really nice things about Salvador is the energy on the public streets.  I think this mainly happens in the Centro Historico district partly because this is where a large number of the tourists stay, but mainly because this is the main gathering spot for the locals.  This is the heart of town, and this is where the public squares are located.  While, I am sure the drum brigades are happy to garner the tourists' attention and maybe even sell a CD or some fundraising trinket, I think they mainly play for themselves and the other locals who gather around the brigades and dance in greater numbers than the tourists.  We are also approaching Carnival.  I would be curious to know what the street drumming is like at other times of the year.
 
Ozell mentioned a good point when we were discussing this on the main square the night I had the pick pocket attempts.  At about 2 AM, a drumming brigade consisting mainly of teenagers claimed one of the corners of the square and started playing.  YOU DO NOT SLEEP IN THE CENTRO HISTORICO DISTRICT UNLESS YOU CAN TUNE OUT THE DRUMS.  Ozell mentioned that these brigades had to practice for Carnival so if you are going to practice, why not practice in public and have some fun with it.  Plus, there probably aren't many interior places that have enough room to house a brigade.  The interesting point that Ozell made about the practicing in preparation of Carnival is that they probably practice not just for technique but also for endurance.  If you saw the energy put into the playing of these drums, most of us would not be able to keep up the pace for more than 15 minutes or so.  And we would be sweating buckets here in the tropics.  During Carnival, these drum brigades are an integral part of a Samba School which are the entities who parade and compete for top prizes and recognition.  It is a very involved and pride fueled affair.  The Samba Schools will also have the dancers and other members in conjunction with the drum brigade.  I am by no means knowledgeable about Samba Schools so Wiki it for more information.  But my point (Ozell's point) is that these schools have to compete for 4 or more hours straight without a break.  And I do mean continuous for the four or more hours.  Therefore, physical conditioning is a fucking huge part of the preparation for the big event.  And the drum brigades we have witnessed here so far play for at least an hour, but often they play for longer periods than that- continuously.
 
The pic attached to this post is one of a neighborhood's children drum brigade.  I doubt they are part of any Samba School, but I am sure this is analogous to Little League Baseball being the fun training activity that supplies varsity high school, college, and professional baseball players in the future.
 
I wish I had some pics and video of the teenage drum brigade that was out on the square a couple nights ago, but Ozell and I purposely did not bring the camera for fear of being pick pocketed or mugged.  Obviously, from the last post, you can see that was a good choice.
 
Cheers,
 
Sean 
 
 

More hands groping me, and not in a good way...

Bom Dia Everyone.  ("D"s at the beginning of a word are pronounced like soft "G"s so it sounds like Gia)
 
Pronunciation is the biggest difference that I have noticed between Portuguese and Spanish.  Obviously, there are other differences most of which I am probably not even aware.  But they do share a shit load of the same vocabulary, and from what I can tell, very similar grammar.  Portuguese, however, seems to have very multiple sound variations for many of the consonants depending on where they are in the word.  Their vowels are also much more nasal than the other Romance languages- French included.
 
Anyways, I think I am going to write a bunch of short little posts so I can attach appropriate pictures when applicable and so I can keep track of the different topics I want to mention.
 
As the subject heading for this epistle indicates, I had more people putting their hands in my pockets here in Salvador.  The guide books mention that if you are going to get robbed or pick pocketed in Brazil, then Salvador is probably the place.  That is a powerful statement considering there are many places in Brazil, like Rio, where muggings and robberies are pretty damn commonplace for the tourists.
 
Ozell and I stayed inside the hostel the first night we were here because we arrived so late and were tired.  The second evening we went out because there were some public street parties/concerts going on, and you need to participate in the nightlife of a city like Salvador.  We were in the Centro Historico district which is the heart of the old town, touristy, and reasonably safe- to a point.  We were walking around some of the streets adjacent to our hostel.
The streets were crowded in places but not impassable.  We could always move freely.  I was being very cognizant of the little money I had on me.  I had most of it in my shoe, but I had a little in one of my short pockets because if I did want a beer, then I did not want to have to go to my shoe for money.  That would have just shown whoever had taken an interest in me as a potential "mark" where I was keeping my money and probably give them the idea that I had a decent amount on me.  Anyways, as we were walking up a hilly cobble street, I felt one hand attempt to go into my right pocket.  I caught him right as he was entering because I had shortened the natural swing of my right arm to keep it relatively close to this pocket without completely giving away that I was guarding it.  He brushed off the physical contact as an innocent bump.  I immediately told Ozell that I had my first pickpocket attempt of the night.  We could not have been more than 150 yards from our hostel.
 
Then, within another minute or so, I had a much more brazen attempt made at my left pocket.  I didn't have anything in this pocket.  (I only had the equivalent of $4 in my right pocket).  As Ozell and I were walking at a normal gate, this guy just put his hand in my pocket as if I had given him permission to do so.  We were not standing still in a crowded area.  There would have been little chance that I would have not noticed the potential lift.  I would have thought that it was the clumsiest pick pocket attempt ever except for the way he reacted when I turned to him with his hand in the cookie jar.  He just looked at me, smiled, removed his hand, and patted me on the back with a hearty laugh.  The nonverbal conversation was perfectly clear... "Hahahaha.  You caught me.  Awww, shucks!  I'm sorry about that."  And that is what it is like here.  I believe they all think that grabbing at pockets is perfectly okay because if you get caught, you just laugh it off.  What is anybody going to do?  Nothing.  And if you don't get caught, then you make a good score.  Since nothing is going to be done if you get caught in the act, then it just encourages brazen and what would be highly impractical pick pocket attempts under normal circumstances.
 
Needless to say, this put me in a frustrated mood again, and I told Ozell I wanted to get off of these streets and go up to the public square for the rest of the evening. 
 
Ozell has a distinct advantage in Brazil and Salvador especially.  Maybe for the first time in his life his skin color is a huge benefit.  He easily passes for a local until he talks.  He has not had any pick pocket attempts made on him.  I stand out as a tall white guy with blue eyes.  My blue eyes are the biggest give away of all.  Lighter skin is still relatively common here, but blue eyes are practically unheard of.   We both wear somewhat typical tourist clothes, but at the same time, I don't think we look near as touristy as other people.  We also only wear crappy clothes.  If Ozell didn't wear his Michigan baseball cap, I think most locals would not guess that he was foreign.
 
It is unfortunate.  You can't let these instances ruin your time traveling, but they sure do detract from it.  It is almost impossible not to extrapolate negative feelings towards the entire community based on the actions of some individuals when these instances are so prevalent.  But at the same time, we both feel justified putting blame on the entire community because everywhere you go they have a very complacent attitude about it.  Ozell lost a new friend over it.  The entire city of Buenos Aires appears to ignore the behavior as long as it is mainly directed towards foreigners.  The hostel owner here in Salvador chimed in, "That's just people being friendly here." when he heard me casually mention the pick pocket attempts to another traveler.  And the guidebooks for Brazil have anecdotally stated that if someone in a Brazilian family was mugged or pick pocketed the night before, the event typically isn't even worth mentioning at the breakfast table in the morning.  Everyone has more important things to discuss.
 
Well, that has definitely been one of the largest cultural differences I have encountered on this trip. Unfortunately, it has been a disappointing one.
 
On to the next topic...
 
Sean
 
 
 

Thursday, January 22, 2009

More hands groping me, and not in a good way...

Bom Dia Everyone.  ("D"s at the beginning of a word are pronounced like soft "G"s so it sounds like Gia)
 
Pronunciation is the biggest difference that I have noticed between Portuguese and Spanish.  Obviously, there are other differences most of which I am probably not even aware.  But they do share a shit load of the same vocabulary, and from what I can tell, very similar grammar.  Portuguese, however, seems to have very multiple sound variations for many of the consonants depending on where they are in the word.  Their vowels are also much more nasal than the other Romance languages- French included.
 
Anyways, I think I am going to write a bunch of short little posts so I can attach appropriate pictures when applicable and so I can keep track of the different topics I want to mention.
 
As the subject heading for this epistle indicates, I had more people putting their hands in my pockets here in Salvador.  The guide books mention that if you are going to get robbed or pick pocketed in Brazil, then Salvador is probably the place.  That is a powerful statement considering there are many places in Brazil, like Rio, where muggings and robberies are pretty damn commonplace for the tourists.
 
Ozell and I stayed inside the hostel the first night we were here because we arrived so late and were tired.  The second evening we went out because there were some public street parties/concerts going on, and you need to participate in the nightlife of a city like Salvador.  We were in the Centro Historico district which is the heart of the old town, touristy, and reasonably safe- to a point.  We were walking around some of the streets adjacent to our hostel.
The streets were crowded in places but not impassable.  We could always move freely.  I was being very cognizant of the little money I had on me.  I had most of it in my shoe, but I had a little in one of my short pockets because if I did want a beer, then I did not want to have to go to my shoe for money.  That would have just shown whoever had taken an interest in me as a potential "mark" where I was keeping my money and probably give them the idea that I had a decent amount on me.  Anyways, as we were walking up a hilly cobble street, I felt one hand attempt to go into my right pocket.  I caught him right as he was entering because I had shortened the natural swing of my right arm to keep it relatively close to this pocket without completely giving away that I was guarding it.  He brushed off the physical contact as an innocent bump.  I immediately told Ozell that I had my first pickpocket attempt of the night.  We could not have been more than 150 yards from our hostel.
 
Then, within another minute or so, I had a much more brazen attempt made at my left pocket.  I didn't have anything in this pocket.  (I only had the equivalent of $4 in my right pocket).  As Ozell and I were walking at a normal gate, this guy just put his hand in my pocket as if I had given him permission to do so.  We were not standing still in a crowded area.  There would have been little chance that I would have not noticed the potential lift.  I would have thought that it was the clumsiest pick pocket attempt ever except for the way he reacted when I turned to him with his hand in the cookie jar.  He just looked at me, smiled, removed his hand, and patted me on the back with a hearty laugh.  The nonverbal conversation was perfectly clear... "Hahahaha.  You caught me.  Awww, shucks!  I'm sorry about that."  And that is what it is like here.  I believe they all think that grabbing at pockets is perfectly okay because if you get caught, you just laugh it off.  What is anybody going to do?  Nothing.  And if you don't get caught, then you make a good score.  Since nothing is going to be done if you get caught in the act, then it just encourages brazen and what would be highly impractical pick pocket attempts under normal circumstances.
 
Needless to say, this put me in a frustrated mood again, and I told Ozell I wanted to get off of these streets and go up to the public square for the rest of the evening. 
 
Ozell has a distinct advantage in Brazil and Salvador especially.  Maybe for the first time in his life his skin color is a huge benefit.  He easily passes for a local until he talks.  He has not had any pick pocket attempts made on him.  I stand out as a tall white guy with blue eyes.  My blue eyes are the biggest give away of all.  Lighter skin is still relatively common here, but blue eyes are practically unheard of.   We both wear somewhat typical tourist clothes, but at the same time, I don't think we look near as touristy as other people.  We also only wear crappy clothes.  If Ozell didn't wear his Michigan baseball cap, I think most locals would not guess that he was foreign.
 
It is unfortunate.  You can't let these instances ruin your time traveling, but they sure do detract from it.  It is almost impossible not to extrapolate negative feelings towards the entire community based on the actions of some individuals when these instances are so prevalent.  But at the same time, we both feel justified putting blame on the entire community because everywhere you go they have a very complacent attitude about it.  Ozell lost a new friend over it.  The entire city of Buenos Aires appears to ignore the behavior as long as it is mainly directed towards foreigners.  The hostel owner here in Salvador chimed in, "That's just people being friendly here." when he heard me casually mention the pick pocket attempts to another traveler.  And the guidebooks for Brazil have anecdotally stated that if someone in a Brazilian family was mugged or pick pocketed the night before, the event typically isn't even worth mentioning at the breakfast table in the morning.  Everyone has more important things to discuss.
 
Well, that has definitely been one of the largest cultural differences I have encountered on this trip. Unfortunately, it has been a disappointing one.
 
On to the next topic...
 
Sean
 
 
 

Tuesday, January 20, 2009

Salvador- Centro Historico: The best example of colonial architecture we have seen so far...

Hey Everyone,
 
I want to take a nap so I will keep this short.  Ozell and I were able to explore a little bit of Salvador for the first time today.  The area we are in is the Centro Historico district.  It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and it has been the best example of colonial architecture we have seen so far on our trip.  It is also the most aesthetically pleasing city that we have visited for me.  Not all of Salvador looks like this.  But this entire neighborhood of pastel colored buildings and cobble streets is very nice.
 
I am uploading the pics from today as I am typing this so they should be posted soon.
 
Cheers,
 
Sean
 
 
 
 

There is constant drumming coming from the streets. We must be in Salvador!!...

Hey Everyone,
 
After a very tiring flight from Sao Paulo, which was delayed for over 4 hours, we arrived in Salvador, Brazil last night.  Salvador is the capital of the Bahia State of Brazil and also the center of Afro-Brazilian culture and people.  We both have been looking forward to coming here, seeing the sites, and enjoying the culture.  You may recall, this is the city in which we were hoping to attend Carnival.  It is Brazil's largest (yes, bigger than Rio's).  It is also allegedly more egalitarian.  Brazil also suffers from social classes, and Rio's Carnival definitely highlights those differences between the classes.  Unfortunately, the shear popularity of Salvador's Carnival has made it too expensive for us to attend.  A bed in a 10-person dormitory in a below average hostel is going for about $75-$100 US per person per night.  And you have to stay for a minimum of seven days.  That is just your expense for lodging, and everything else is more expensive than usual for the week.  Since our visas are good for 5 years, we have reached the conclusion that we will come back to Brazil for Carnival in a few years and after we have jobs again so we can do Carnival right and in comfort.  We both would be able to afford dropping a few thousand dollars for Carnival if we had jobs.  We also would love to have some of our friends join us.  We have been told by Brazilians that the best thing to do is to get a group of 6-10 people and rent a house or apartment for Carnival.
 
Anyways, like the Dave Chapelle Show demonstrated...  White people like dancing to guitars, Latinos like dancing to steel drums and electric pianos, and Blacks like dancing to drums.  LOL
 
Well, we know we are in Salvador because on a typical Monday night at 1 AM the street music was going full force, and today when we awoke and were having our breakfast at 10 AM, the street drumming was already going strong.  We have been told by some of the other travelers who have been here for a few days that every day, all day you can hear and see the street drumming.  Even our shuttle driver from the airport to the hostel could not stop from drumming on his steering wheel as he drove us the 18 km to our hostel.  Hahahaha.
 
We have no pictures yet, but we will be leaving to see the city pretty soon.  We'll post them as we take them.
 
Ciao for now,
 
Sean
 
 
 
 
 

Friday, January 16, 2009

Infancy...33 years old......Centarian- or How I Shat Myself Last Night...

Bom Dia Todos!
 
Ozell and I have been checking out some museums and the sites here in Sao Paulo the last few days.  We had a couple of Australians in our dorm room the last three days that made sleeping very comfortable since their smoking on the adjacent porch collected in the room and their refusal to leave on the air conditioning when they went to bed which made sweating impossible to avoid.  But now they are gone, and Ozell and I moved to the bunks closest to the air conditioner so I could claim dominion over it.  It is within my fiefdom now.  Lol
 
But in this post I wanted to chat about how I wasn't sure of my age last night.  It is a well known observation that we all shit ourselves while we are infants, and if we live to be old enough, we tend to shit ourselves again.  Well, I was born in 1975 and am 33 years old, but last night I shat myself. (I prefer the verb forms of:  to shit, shat, and had shat.  I just think they are fun to say.)  It was late in the evening around midnight.  I could feel feces forging their way through my large intestine and into my colon.  They even seemed to be in a particular hurry, but I did not heed their pleas for a rapid passing.
 
Because there were other travelers already sleeping in the room, I did not want to run to the bathroom to relieve my bowels only to have to open and close the door again to immediately grab my toothbrush and towel for my nightly cleaning rituals.  I think it is inconsiderate if someone doesn't make an effort to limit their disturbances to other roommates.  Since I am 33 and in good health, I thought I still had control of my sphincter and could effectively delay passage of the poo until I wanted.  I was wrong.  As I was bending down to grab my tooth brush and tooth paste out of my bag, my feces made a break for it.  Thankfully, the utter shock and surprise that ran up my spine -and down my butt cheeks- was enough to pucker my hole tighter than an Argentine woman's face (they have the most plastic surgery in the world), and I was able to limit the damage.  In fact, the damage was not extensive, but it was enough to officially qualify as shitting myself. 
 
After expelling the remaining excrement from my bowels in the proper receptacle in the bathroom, I proceeded to wash my underwear in the sink and with the hand soap provided.  No permanent harm done, and the whole episode gave me a chuckle as I wondered to myself whether I had regressed back into infancy or fast forward to 100 and the need for a colostomy bag.  Hahahahaha
 
It reminded me of the old childhood song from when I was six years old...Diarrhea Ummm Ummm (why this song took on a baseball setting, I am not sure)
 
As you are heading down to First, and you think your pants on goin' to burst...
Diarrhea, Ummm Ummm
Diarrhea, Ummm Ummm
As you are about to round Second, and you know you aren't goin' to make it...
Diarrhea, Ummm Ummm
Diarrhea, Ummm Ummm
As you are about to reach Third, and you feel a big turd...
Diarrhea, Ummm Ummm
Diarrhea, Ummm Ummm
And as you slide into Home, your pants turn into foam...
Diarrhea, Ummm Ummm
Diarrhea, Ummm Ummm
 
Or something like that.  My memory of the lyrics is a little shaky since I had not recalled that song since elementary school.  Heheheheh.
 
Cheers to you all!
 
Sean
(Oh, if you are wondering why I would post a blog about shitting myself which most people would consider embarrassing and keep to themselves like Ozell thought I should have done when I told him about it this morning, it's because I don't tend to get embarrassed.  I do tend to laugh really hard in a hyperventilating manner when I think about people reading about me shitting myself.  In other words, I wrote this post for my selfish enjoyment.)      ;)
 
 
 
 
 

Monday, January 12, 2009

Brazil - A Taste of Home

One interesting fact we learned so far is that Sao Paulo has the largest Japanese population outside of Japan, which you definitely notice just walking about the city or taking the subway.  It's a little strange hearing a Japanese guy speaking Portuguese, but I guess not nearly as strange as hearing an Asian person speaking Polish.  Anyway, up until now, Buenos Aires was the most "international" city we've been to in South America, but even there, the vast majority of people were clearly Argentinean; you just had a little sprinkling of something different every now and then... enough so that people didn't stare at me like I was from another planet because I'm Black, but not so much that I ever blended in.  Brazil, as I mentioned in my post about Porto Alegre, is different.  Blacks, or those with some African ancestry, make up a significant portion of the population, perhaps similar to the Black population in the States or perhaps more, I really don't know.  I'm sure it depends on the region.  Either way, they have Black people here in Brazil while they don't anywhere else we've been in South America.  And obviously, the Blacks in Brazil are mostly descendants of slaves as they are in the States, the Caribbean, or anywhere else in the New World. 
 
Unfortunately, it seems Brazil is very similar to the States when it comes to racism and discrimination and the separation between different races is quite apparent even to the casual observer.  People of a certain skin color hang with people of the same skin color.  You see an inordinate number of Blacks or darker skinned people who are obviously poor.  I've rarely seen a dark-skinned and a light-skinned Brazilian together, especially in groups.  But most disappointing of all is the gay community here in Brazil, which sadly, feels just like the racist gay community back in San Diego. 
 
I eventually stopped bitching so much about racism in the gay community back home, for various reasons, not the least of which was other people's, including friends, refusal to confront reality and instead try to make me feel like I was wrong to not accept other people's racism as personal preference.  But since this is the first place I've experienced a similar phenomenon outside of the States, I feel compelled to write about it.  To put it bluntly, Blacks and Asians are not "desirable" here in Brazil and it's no more apparent than in the profiles on the same websites we use back home and here in South America for meeting other gay guys for hooking up.  And, as is the case back home, the gay community is no different from their heterosexual counterparts when it comes to such issues, so I'm sure the same level of prejudice exists among straight people here as well.  Nevertheless, I'd like to share a sampling of quotes from some of the profiles here in Brazil to give you a better idea of what I mean, especially for those of you who aren't familiar with such websites back in the States.  Rough translations are in italics. 
Ursos e negros não me atraem, então por favor. Não percam seu tempo!
I'm not attracted to bears and Blacks so please, don't waste your time!
 
Nada contra mas negros, orientais e gordos infelizmente não fazem meu tipo.
Not into Blacks, Asians and fat people, they are not my type.
 
Japas e Negros nao fazem o meu tipo sendo assim nao terao preferencia.
Japanese and Blacks are not my type and thus not my preference.
 
Não me atraem mulatos, negros, orientais e acima de 40 anos.
Not attracted to mulattos, Blacks, Asians and those over 40 years old.
 
Não curto negros, japas e nem afeminados, se vc se encaixa nisso desista ok?
Not into Blacks, Japanese or effeminate, if this is you, give up, ok?
 
Não curto gordos, negros, velhos e japoneses.
Not into fat, Black, old, or Japanese.
After seeing a few comments like these, I stopped wondering why I wasn't getting any messages, not to mention responses to mine, and instead did a search and found over a hundred such profiles, in Sao Paulo alone, with similar statements.  It pissed me off just browsing through them all.  Like San Diego, it's easy enough to deal with one guy with such prejudices; one can't expect everyone to be enlightened, but when dealing with an entire community, culture and society that treats Blacks, or Asians, or any other group as the most unattractive and undesirable beings on earth, it can be a bit frustrating to say the LEAST.  Trust me, I have very high self esteem so it's not like such words and statements make me feel unattractive.  I can blow it off as the bigotry and ignorance that it is; however, just because I understand the type of historical experiences in a society that lead to such widespread bias does not allow me to excuse it.
 
Sure, some of you may be thinking, Ozell, you've been the most popular guy in the room no matter where you went in every other South American country.  To that I respond, does the fact that one country is NOT full of racists balance out the one that IS full of racists?  Is something wrong with wishing racism simply ceased to exist in EVERY country; that people would just get over skin color, which is the most arbitrary and biologically insignificant and meaningless attributes we have as humans?  This isn't just about sex; I obviously don't have a problem getting laid.  This is about the way people view me as a human being.  Besides, as I've learned from plenty of experiences, sexual bias based on race is typically just an extension of racial bias and prejudice in general.  I just cannot understand this continued obsession with race, not in my own country and not here in Brazil.  I'm sick of it and I'm especially sick of the excuses and attempts to explain or justify it.
 
I did manage to find one profile online with a link to a great webpage devoted to the issue of sexual racism within the gay community.  The site discusses the topic better than I've seen it ever discussed before and actually challenges people to change.  Actually, I can't recall it ever really being discussed within the gay community before, at least not officially.  Racism is widely acknowledged by Blacks, Asians and other discriminated groups within the gay community; but like our society at large, the dominant group can easily ignore it pretending, and in some cases really believing, that racism doesn't exist in the gay community simply because they don't experience it.  Obviously, it just doesn't negatively affect them the way is does the minority groups they discriminate against.  The webpage is short and concise and I highly encourage you to read it: www.sexualracismsux.com
 
As a side note, it still amazes me and pisses me off that the gay community was so quick and harsh in their criticism of the Black church for their support of California's Prop 8, using the justification that, of all people, Blacks should know what it's like to be discriminated against and thus, work to fight discrimination in whatever form.  I say, gay people are JUST finding out what it's like to be discriminated against so don't come trying to explain to me or any other Black person what discrimination feels like.  The gay community expects, DEMANDS, support for their causes and issues, then turn the other way when it comes to any other minority issues.  Perhaps if the gay community worked a little harder at building bridges, between different races within the gay community and between other minority groups outside of the gay community, then support and understanding would spread out to other minority groups naturally and automatically simply due to the fact that a lot of minorities are gay.  Seems logical, but I guess I realized a long time ago how illogical, and flat out ignorant, some people really are.
 
Fiat Lux!
Ozell

Rain, Bugs, Rabies and Cheese

Okay, I have some catching up to do...
 
Weather:  I really can't complain too much about weather, especially considering it's winter back home in the States, but seeing as the seasons were one of the things we took into consideration when planning this trip and weather does tend to have more of an impact when you're traveling than when you're just at home going about your normal routine, I do have a couple gripes.  Besides, after living in San Diego for over six years, I kind of got used to the mild climate and predictable weather.  Remember, it typically doesn't rain for six months straight in San Diego and while that fact may add to the constant wildfires, it certainly makes for plenty of lovely days at the beach.  I will admit, overall, we've been lucky with weather during South America's late Spring and early Summer.  Cusco and Bolivia got a little chilly at night since those cities are pretty high in elevation, but with a jacket or sweater at night, we were fine and we could still wear shorts during the day.  We had some extreme temperatures while we were in Cordoba and Rosario; it was over 90 degrees everyday for a week straight and even the locals kept commenting on how unusual it was, especially for so early in the season.  Of course, I don't mind the sun and heat, but I think that week was even tough for me.  Other than that, the weather on our trip was perfect until we got to Florianopolis, Brazil.  There were beaches in Valparaiso and Vina del Mar, but those didn't work out because it was cold and sprinkling a bit while we were there, plus the water is too cold there anyway so it's not like a real beach vacation even if the weather was perfect.  We did have a chance to go to the beach in Rosario with Fede.  That was great, but the beach is along a river and the water quality was questionable so I mainly sunbathed and worked on my tan.  I had been looking forward to chilling out on a real beach since we started this trip and Floripa was supposed to be the time to really do it since the town is know for its 42 beaches.  We did enjoy two wonderful days at Praia Mole beach when we first arrived in town, but the rain moved in after that and continued for four days straight!!  It sucked.  It's not like rain in a big city where you have other things to do.  Florianopolis is a beach town; there is nothing else to do other than go to the beach.  And to make matters even worse, we were there for New Years so we had to deal with holiday prices everywhere, including our hostel.  We had all these grand plans to check out a number of beaches and explore some of the more remote areas of the island, but the weather made it pointless.  If there is one place I'd love to visit again, it would be Floripa, but only if I have control over the weather. 
 
Bugs and Wildlife:  I've seen some really big bugs and other interesting bits of nature since we're been in South America.  There was a bug in the pool at the New Years Eve party we went to, and I swear, this bug, particularly the wings, was the size of a humming bird.  It got stuck in the water and was buzzing around for a few minutes trying to escape, but finally drowned and just floated on top of the water allowing for a close up view.  Again, this was the biggest flying insect I have ever seen, even in books and online.  I have no clue what it was, but I'll be quite happy if I never run into one again, especially if it's alive.  We saw a really big iguana out in the wild while we were at Iguaçu Falls.  It was about the size of the big ones you see in pet stores back home, but much cooler to see in it's native environment.  There was also a big caterpillar at Iguaçu, which you can see a picture of in our photo album, along with a couple pictures of the HUGE spiders they had in the trees and brush along some of the pathways.  We also encountered some huge beetle-type bugs at one of the stops on our bus ride from Curitiba to Iguaçu.  They were everywhere, particularly in the light and I had to watch your step to keep from stepping on them.  A lot of them were on their backs furiously moving their legs trying to turn over.  Sean compared them to June Bugs back home, but I think they were bigger and looked nastier, if only for the sheer number of them.  It was disgusting.  In case you didn't know or it's not obvious at this point, I HATE bugs!  Sean on the other hand, intentionally stepped on one, presumably to feel the crunch.  I made sure he didn't put his shoes on my side once we were back on the bus. 
 
We also saw a very strange animal at Iguaçu (attached above), which I think is a Coati, that I would best describe as being similar to a raccoon with a long nose.  If anyone knows what this is for sure, please let me know.  The bus ride that takes you to the falls has a recorded message that gives information about the different stops and also makes a point to warn you about these animals as they can carry rabies.  Unlike raccoons, these animals are pretty active during the day and the ones at the park seemed to be quite socialized toward people and will come right up to you, especially if you have food.  And of course, like anywhere else, there were plenty to idiots feeding them, despite all the signs asking not to, and trying to take close up pictures.  I took my pictures from a safe distance while the animal was looking around the tables for food.  Anyway, I swear there were even some kids even trying to pet the damn things.  Can we say child endangerment?  If you know anything about rabies, you know it's not something you want to risk, and one bite is all it takes before you're stuck getting prophylaxis rabies shots.
 
Cheese:  This is just a random gripe and Sean is probably best to blog about this since he's the cheese freak, but I opened another bag of Cheetos a few days ago only to find some strange, yellowish-white, fried, puffed corn with a sort-of-like cheese, but definitely not a type of cheese I know, coating.  They were NOTHING like the Cheetos back home.  What the fuck!  I understand having different recipes for different markets, but these are Cheetos we're talking about.  Why not just call them something else if you're going to change the recipe?  That's like McDonalds serving sweet potato fries and still calling them French Fries.  I bought this bag of Cheetos a few days ago and saved it until my mouth was watering for the nice fattening taste of processed familiar cheese-like substance.  These tasted like crap.  I can't believe PepsiCo allows their Cheetos brand name on this product.  Now I understand Sean's frustration with trying to find Cheddar and Pepper Jack cheese down here.  It just doesn't exist!
 
 

Sao Paulo, Brazil- this city is expansive...

Hello Everyone,
 
Ozell and I are now in Sao Paulo, Brazil.  This is the largest city in South America and one of the very largest in the world.  Its metropolitan area is home to over 20 million people.  We arrived in town yesterday morning after an overnight 15-hour bus ride from Iguaçu Foz.  We saw a little of the city near our hostel yesterday afternoon.  Today we tried to go to the airport to buy plane tickets to Salvador in the north, but the airport shuttle was a ridiculous price.  We are going to try one of the travel agencies near where we are staying.
 
The day was not completely wasted because we went to one of the "skyscraper's" observation decks for a view of the city and some of the other sites around the old city center.  I put "skyscrapers" in quotation marks because even their tallest buildings are not much more than 40 stories high.  That does not compare with most skyscrapers around the world.  In fact, San Diego, which has a very height limited skyline, will soon have a 40-story building.  Not that 40-stories is something to scoff at.  The building we visited did have the distinction of once being the tallest reinforced concrete building in the world.  It is not a metal frame building which almost all skyscrapers are.  The pics we have posted in the Sao Paulo album so far are mainly from the observation deck of the building-  Edificio de Banco Sao Paulo.
 
The very impressive thing about Sao Paulo's skyline is the sheer expansiveness and density of all of the buildings.  For 360 degrees and for miles in all directions, there is little but high rises.  The pic attached to this post is from just one of the four sides of the observation deck.  It isn't even the densest side, but some of the other panoramics I did not align very well as you can see in the photo album.
 
I guess that is how you house 20 million people.
 
More about this city as we explore it...
 
Cheers,
 
Sean 

Iguazu Foz- Geologic Formation

For who may be interested...
 
The visual, natural wonder that is Iguaçu Foz was created by a river flowing over multi-tiered ancient lava flows.  The rocks that form the walls of the falls and the riverbed above and below are basaltic rocks.  The reason the falls are so wide (over a mile) is because the river widens out significantly about 18 km upstream of the falls.  It has cut many smaller channels in the basaltic rock much like a river delta.  Each individual channel creates its own waterfall of which there are over 280 in the official count.  Of course the number of waterfalls at any one time is dependent on the volume of water in the river at the moment.  More water would tend to flood the individual channels and create more massive but more consolidated waterfalls.  Lower water volumes would tend to highlight the number of individual water falls up to a point where the lack of water would dry up the falls.  In the hostel, there was a very neat picture showing the falls when the water level was at a 10-year low (a mere 185 m^3/s)  and when the water level was at a 10-year high (a massive 22,200 m^3/s).  The difference was very dramatic.
 
We intend on visiting Victoria Falls in Africa later in our trip.  We have Wikipedia'd information on waterfalls and learned that Victoria Falls lie on top of ancient basaltic lava flows
also.  The Wikipedia article has a good comparison of the characteristics of the various waterfalls around the world like Niagara, Iguaçu, and Victoria.
 
Next is Sao Paulo...
 
Sean
 

Saturday, January 10, 2009

Iguazu Foz, Part III- the best panoramic pic we have to show the length of the falls...

Hey Everyone,
 
This panoramic pic shows the Brazilian falls are the far left and far in the background.  A portion of the Argentine falls is shown on the right side of the pic and are much closer to the location from where this pic was taken.  The middle 1/2 of the falls are blocked in this view by the island and vegetation shown in the middle of this picture.  The waterfalls stretch continuously from the Brazilian falls over a mile away (on the left) to the Argentine falls on the right.
 
For perspective, please look down at the beach on the island in the middle.  Those spots are people.  The boat you see in the pic is not your personal bass fishing boat.  That boat holds about 50 people or more, and the stand on the back, where the captain is, is a full two-stories high.
 
Cheers,
 
Sean & Ozell 
 
 
 
 

Iguazu Foz, Part II- Argentine Side Panoramic...

This photo is from the Argentine side.  Again, please remember, all you can see in this pic is about 1/3 of the length of the falls!    The middle 1/3 is obscured by the island and vegetation (ON THE FAR LEFT) in this picture. The Brazilian pic from the last post shows the other 1/3 of the length of the falls which is over a mile away from where this pic was taken and also not visible in this photo.  2/3 of the falls are not visible in either of these two photos... 
 
Sean & Ozell 
 
 

Iguazu Foz- A Natural Wonder of the World!!!

Hello All,
 
Ozell and I spent the last two days in Iguaçu Foz Naitonal Park visiting the world famous waterfalls.  We went to the park on the Brazilian side the first day, and then we went to the park on the Argentine side yesterday.  I am sure we will both write more about the experience, but I wanted to post a quick blog telling everyone NOT TO MISS THE IGUAZU FOZ PHOTO ALBUM on the website.  You should check out all of the pics.  Unfortunately, there is no way to capture the full majesty of the falls from the ground due to the way the river is shaped, the vegetation, and the fact that the edge of the waterfalls spans over 2 kilometers (over a mile)!.  The falls also consist of two, three, and more tiers.  The only pics that can come close to capturing the entire falls are from the air, but you lose the multi-tier perspective the more overhead the pic is from.
 
SO REMEMBER, EVEN OUR BEST PANORAMIC PHOTOS ONLY CAPTURE ABOUT 1/3 OF THE WATERFALLS AT THAT PARTICULAR TIME!!!!
(This photo is just of the Brazilian portion.)
 
Enjoy,
 
Sean & Ozell
 
 

My Two-Week Hiatus

Greetings Everyone,
 
In case any of you wondered why Sean has been the only one blogging since Christmas, don't worry; I'm still traveling too.  I'm sorry it's been a while since I've posted anything to the blog.  Over the past couple of weeks, I just realized that a few of the people I expected to be most interested in reading my posts about this trip don't bother to check out the blog at all, while a lot of people I didn't expect to follow along, people I don't even know, or others I simply don't know very well, are keeping up with our adventures religiously.  While one purpose of the blog is to have a personal record that I can look back on myself years from now, I also wanted to share my experiences, as it was happening, with people I know, especially the people closest to me.  Nevertheless, it seems my audience is quite different from the one I imagined when I first set up the blog, so I will keep that in mind as I'm writing and continue to share my experiences with the 382 unique visitors we had in December.  And yes, that's a few more visitors than November!
 
Website Updates:  Despite the absence of blog posts from me, I've still been very diligent about updating our current location, map and total mileage.  It's the first thing I do when I get online in a new city so it's always the best place to check if you're curious about where we are.  I also update our travel itinerary whenever we figure out our next stops and how we're getting there.  As of now, we have decided on where we're going through Salvador, after which we'll travel south down the coast of Brazil.  We'll spend the next couple weeks figuring out our exact destinations, at which time I'll update the itinerary.  Just click on Itinerary & Map from the Main Menu to see the latest updates.
 
That's all for now.  I'm working on a couple new posts about our experiences since we arrived in Brazil and hope to finish those before or during our 15-hour bus ride tonight. 
 
Cheers,
Ozell

Two oddities about South America and one about Brazil...

Hey Everyone,
 
Before the Iguaçu Foz post, I wanted to mention three oddities we have seen on our travels so far.  Two of the oddities have been common throughout South America.  The third oddity has only been in Brazil. 
 
Now, there have been hundreds of "oddities" that we have encountered.  And by "oddity", I just mean something that is different than the States and interests, amuses, or enlightens me.  Maybe "oddity" is not the best word, but it is good enough for this post.  Some of these oddities, we have written about in previous posts, but the vast majority have not been mentioned.  It is a shame because they are the types of things that give me the most pleasure when I travel, but they are often trivial enough that they slip my memory unless I was to make special notes about it.  So when it comes time to write a blog post, I do not readily recall the little things I saw the previous few days.
 
The two that have been observable all over South America in both the "rich" and "poor" countries are:  the lack of concrete pavement for sidewalks and installing broken shards of glass along the tops of most walls and roofs in order to deter birds from sitting there.
 
At first, I thought the lack of concrete sidewalks was charming.  From Lima, Peru to Iguaçu Foz, Brazil, the use of concrete for sidewalks has been nearly non-existent.  If they have improved sidewalks at all, then they are constructed out of cobble stones, stone bricks, or tiles of various forms and sizes.  The use of these materials and the subsequent settling of the ground or the uprooting from adjacent trees causes the sidewalks to be the most uneven and torn up that I have ever seen.  Ozell and I have large luggage bags that include a roller which would make them easy to move around.  However, these sturdy bags have started to take a beating due to the crappy sidewalks which constantly snag and jolt the wheels and hard plastic bases of the bags.  There are so many tripping hazards for able-bodied pedestrians, and I don't think most people in wheelchairs could navigate 80% of the sidewalks in any particular city.  In addition, there is usually a fair amount of trash and dog shit to navigate around as well.  And I do not understand why this is the case.  Maybe people here like their tiled and stone sidewalks, but I cannot see how they could be cheaper to construct than concrete.  The tiles and stones need to be cut and hand laid and then grouted in place.  You just pump concrete into a form and then brush it (for the most part).  It would be a huge improvement for these cities in my opinion.  This picture attached to this post shows an example of a typical sidewalk- actually, this is an atypical example because this section of a sidewalk is actually in much better shape than most.  It still is very uneven and the spaces between tiles are not smooth or flush.
 
I think the broken shards of glass are an ingenious way to discourage birds from settling in for a rest or shit on your walls, but they are aesthetically pretty damn ugly.  While the glass may not line every wall and roof, it is pretty damn omnipresent in every location we have been.  The tops of walls or edges of roofs are spackled with a layer of cement or grout.  Then, broken shards of glass bottles and such are stuck in the cement/grout with there sharp edges facing up.  Admittedly, I have not seen any birds or other animals on the tops of these walls so it is definitely effective.  It just looks bad and reminds me of something rural, white trash Americans might do if they actually drank their beer from bottles instead of aluminum cans.
 
The last item that made Ozell and I cynically chuckle was when we went to an ATM at about 10:30pm when we where in Florianopolis.  We knew we were going to have a large bill for the week at the hostel, and the ATMs in South America only allow us to take out a couple hundred dollars each day so we were trying to get out money that night and again the next day.  However, when we went to use the ATM, it told us the amount we were requesting "Exceeded our daily limit." even though we had not used the ATM that day.  We tried again for a smaller amount.  The same message appeared.  We gave up and decided to try a different machine the next day.  When we returned to the hostel, our experience at the ATM came up in conversation with the Brazilian with whom we had become friends.  That is when he informed us that in Brazil a law was passed that required ATMs to only issue very small amounts of cash $10-$20 after 10pm if they issued any cash at all.   As he said this first statement, I thought to myself, "That sort of sucks, but I guess they decided to due that so that armed muggers could not demand that you take out a bunch of money at a nearby ATM."  (Unlike most of the petty thieves on the rest of the continent who mainly pick pocket you, Brazilians are known to be armed and to have little qualms about using their knives and guns if they are not happy with their take or your cooperation.)  But as I was thinking this law was passed to protect people from the typical street thugs, our Brazilian friend continued with his explanation...  Yeah, the government decided to pass this law so that corrupt police could not force you to go to the ATM and take out a large sum of money for them.  So this law was passed not because of the Brazilian street criminals but because of the high percentage of corrupt Brazilian police!  That made us chuckle- more out of frustration and disgust, than because it was funny.
 
Okay-  that is all for this post...
 
Sean  :)
 
 
 

Bus Stop Tubes in Curitiba...

Hello Everybody!  Hello Dr. Nick!
 
Ozell and I are spending today in the hostel trying to relax before our 15 hour bus ride to Sao Paulo this evening.  We were hoping to break it up into two bus trips and stop in a city somewhere in between, but it worked out this way due to logistical reasons instead.  This does allow me to catch up on a few blog posts so here are a couple...
 
We spent two nights in Curitiba, Brazil on our way from Florianopolis to Iguaçu Foz.  We did that to break up the long bus ride also.  We were able to stay in a pretty nice hotel which included two queen size beds, air conditioning, a large room, cable TV, and a private bathroom with a shower with nice water pressure.  And all of that was for a cheaper price than we have been paying to stay in some of the hostels we have been in.  It seems that in the cities which aren't major tourist destinations, we can find nice hotels for a cheaper amount than crappy hostels.  We have not been able to figure out the reason why or how the hostels can stay in business with their prices the way they are.
 
Curitiba was mainly a city for us to relax in comfort a little.  I walked around one evening to see a little more of the city.  Most of the pics posted on the site are from that walk.  Otherwise, we just took it easy, but had a very hard time finding food to eat one evening since everything within a mile or two was closed.
 
The picture I attached to this post shows one of the bus stop "tubes" that I have only seen here in Curitiba.  It is strange because the tubes are raised off the ground.  Therefore, the bus doors are also raised off the ground.  You would not be able to get onto or off the bus from sidewalk level.  There are no steps at the bus stop doors.  I like the bus stops because they are pretty much enclosed and keep the inclement weather at bay.  I don't understand why they are raised off the ground, but since I am personally not in a wheelchair and can walk up a few steps, that does not bother me too much.
 
I was able to meet a nice, young, good looking guy online in Curitiba.  We met up, and I fucked him good.  Ozell and I were laughing today about it because I told him I was reminded how old and inflexible I am getting because I wouldn't be able to put my legs where this guy had them.  I used to be able to, but not anymore.  Hahahahah.
 
Next post:  Iguazu Foz!!  Definitely check out the photo album for this place!
 
Cheers,
 
Sean
 
 
 

Thursday, January 8, 2009

A few crappy pics of Florianopolis...

Hello Everyone,
 
I just wanted to let you know that we have posted the few pics of Florianopolis that we have up to the travel blog.  If you recall from my earlier post, we did not bring the camera with us to the beach the first few days we were here.  Unfortunately, that beach was the most beautiful part of the island and the best weather that we had our entire stay.  Therefore, we only have pictures from the last hour and a half of sunlight left on our last evening on the island.  These pictures are only of the immediate area near our hostel and not of the really pristine and beautiful beach nearby.  Those sights will have to be for me and Ozell only- too bad.  We also wanted to see more of the island, but the four consecutive days of inclement weather made that impossible.  If you are interested in seeing what Florianopolis looks like in its prime, then you can Google or search for Florianopolis or Santa Catarina Island, Brazil online and check out the pictures there.  It is a really nice spot on this earth.
 
The pic that is attached to this post is Ozell and the 2 kilometers of more of solid sand dunes that separate Lagoa Conceicao and one of the beaches fronting the Atlantic Ocean.  Even this pic does not live up to the actual view because of the quickly fading daylight. 
 
I still need to upload about 5 more pics taken as we were leaving the island.  This will be done shortly...
 
Cheers,
 
Sean
 
 

Batting 0 for 3 (0.000) on Bath houses / Saunas!!

Oi, Al Gente!
 
Just a short post to say that I am batting 0.000 when it comes to my personal bath house experiences.  For those of you who do not know what a "bath house" is, simply, it is a place where men go to have sex with other men.  It does usually contain some proper bath house / sauna amenities including, dry saunas, steam saunas, Jacuzzis, and showers.  They usually also have a small bar, TV room, and private rooms in which to have some of your fun. 
 
I have been to three of these bath houses / saunas (they go by both terms depending on your location and the people with whom you are conversing) in my lifetime.  Now that I think about it, they each have been on different continents, but one commonality they all have shared is that they have been complete busts.
 
My first bath house experience was actually in Wellington, New Zealand.  It was not my intent to go to this establishment, but the Englishman I was traveling with and I were enticed to go there by a local Maori with the promise of smoking weed along the way.  We did stop off in a deserted parking garage in downtown to smoke the weed.  That was both promising but also hinted at the impending creepiness of the experience.  For the sake of brevity, the Englishman and I entered the establishment, sat politely in the TV area a while, and then left to go back to our hostel and play amongst ourselves.  The clientele and our host were very creepy guys and not very appealing.
 
My second experience was at a bath house in San Diego.  I didn't think I would patronize one of these establishments again, but this time I was convinced to go because I received an unexpected call from a friend while I was at home saying that he and two other friends were going up to the bath house and thought I should join them.  I was immediately turned on by this idea because the three guys in question were all friends, they are all hot, and I had had sex with each of them before.  They were already near the bath house when they called me so they obviously got there before I did.  By the time I had arrived, they were all getting kicked out.  I did not know this until I had already paid my money to enter and saw them in the locker room area.  One of them was drunk and pretty obnoxious which is why they were being asked to leave.  They left, but since I had already paid my money, I decided to walk around and see what there was to see.  Unfortunately, there wasn't much to see and only old, ugly men were hitting on me so I also left within 10 minutes of entering the premises.  0-2...
 
Well, I had not visited a sauna since then which was a couple of years ago at least.  Ozell is much more experienced than I and often visits these establishments in foreign countries.  He does not really go to them in the States.  The main reason, as I understand it, is that bath houses / saunas tend to be much classier, laid back, and have a better clientele in foreign countries compared to the USA.  Anyways, he has wanted me to go with him to one when we have been in Europe.  It didn't work out that way on our last trip even though I was interested.
 
When we were just in Florianopolis, we met a Brazilian traveler in our hostel who befriended us.  The previous posts discuss that.  Anyways, on one of the rainy days while we were there he was going to a sauna and invited us along.  There was nothing else to do on the rainy afternoon so Ozell and I both went.  It wasn't a disaster.  The facilities were fine.  It was just a waste for the both of us because the clientele were mainly old and fat-  and unattractive in general.  For the vast majority of the time, Ozell and I were the hottest guys there.  We did see a couple of guys we were both interested in, but they did not want to give us the time of day.  They never indicated that they were interested.  So we spent $20 on the entrance fee and a couple of beers and five hours of our time for nothing.  The one thing I did get out of it was sitting in my first true dry and steam saunas.  I have too hard of a time breathing in the steam sauna so I did not like it much.  I definitely understand how people have heart attacks in those things.  But I did like the dry saunas with the hot rocks and hot air.  That felt good for my pores.
 
I think I am done with bath houses /saunas for a while again.  I think I will wait until we go back to Europe since they seem to have the best ones.
 
Ciao for now....
 
Sean  :)
 
 
 

Monday, January 5, 2009

The Pharmacy had a scale...

One of the pharmacies in Floripa had a scale for people to weigh themselves.  I stepped on the scale after a full belly and with my clothes and boots on.  The scale read 157 lbs.  Actually, it read 71 kilograms, but that is about 157 lbs after the conversion.
 
I am trying to eat some Cinnabons....  ;)
 
Sean 

Friday, January 2, 2009

A good NYE but crappy weather in a beach paradise...

Oi Everyone,
 
Since we haven't posted to the blog in a few days due to the NYE holiday and then the post party recovery, I wanted to send a post...
 
We have only seen a small part of Santa Catarina Island.  It is a relatively large island that is about 70-80 kilometers long and 15-25 kilometers wide.  Ozell thinks the island reminds him of the one on LOST, and it does bear some similarities if it was completely undeveloped.  There are some smaller towns and residential areas sprinkled throughout the island.  The southern tip is the least developed and has large tracts of just pristine jungle and beaches.  The north end is the more densely developed area with towns that look like most other beach resorts with mid-rise towers and large tourist populations.  We are in the middle of the island in a town called Lagoa da Conceicoa (Lake of the [Immaculate] Conception).  That is the one interesting feature of this island there are two large fresh water lakes that sit in the middle.  We are along the larger one which has two parts.  The town is of medium size and within a 50 minute walk to the most popular young person beach called Praia Mole.  A little up the coast is the one nude beach on the island.  It is beautiful, but it is also very cruisy and hosts a lot of sexual couplings.  These beaches are not developed except for a couple of small bars that dot the coastline and serve pretty cheap cold drinks and food.  That was a pleasant surprise given the highly inflated prices most beach communities charge right along the coast.  The landward side of the beaches have beautiful sand dunes which are covered in vegetation.  The the jungle hills rise behind them.
 
We spent the first couple afternoons we were here at Praia Mole.  There is a large gay area at one end of the beach with a bar and a couple of drink stands.  They also pump out some decent music to keep the spirits lively.  The sand is a very light beige- not white like north Florida and not dark brown and gritty like San Diego.  It reminds me most of the sand at Cancun, Mexico.  The ocean temp is still surprisingly chilly but bearable when the sun is out.  We are just entering their summer so I expect it continues to warm throughout the next few months.  I would guess it is around 68-70 degrees right now.  The waves are pretty big and there is some good surfing to be had on this beach even though there are allegedly better surfing beaches on the island.  I was in the water on NYE and did some bodysurfing which was very fun with some long rides.
 
Yesterday and today the weather has been cold and rainy which really sucks when you came here for the beaches.  There are way too many beaches for us to see anyways, but now we are losing days where we could have traveled around the island and seen a few different ones.  Yesterday, I don't think either of us minded that the weather was bad since we needed to recover from the party on NYE.
 
There is another Brazilian gay guy staying in our dormitory room at the hostel.  We have befriended each other, and he is nice.  He traveled here alone, but he has some other friends who are also down here in Floripa.  He went to the beach with us during the day on NYE.  He was also my connection to find some ecstasy for the NYE party.  I wasn't intending on partaking of any party favors because I figured none would present themselves since I do not go out and look for them myself- especially in a foreign country.  But when our friend said that he knew of someone selling them at the beach, I decided it would be fun to get a couple.
 
I like the beach because there is a mixture of really hot guys and plenty of average guys.  Everyone always thinks the "grass is greener on the other side", but I have learned that is mostly just a false preconception.  There was not any higher percentage of hot Brazilians on the beach as anywhere else in the world.  And there were plenty who did not belong wearing their Speedos.  This is not to diminish the exotic attractiveness of the hot ones.  I do like the spectrum of skin tones and the dark faces and eyes, and even though Florianopolis is a vacation destination, it is still mainly just other Brazilians who visit here.  We were some of the very few foreigners along the beach.  It was nice not to be surrounded by other foreigners, but since the vast majority of the guys were Brazilian, then little English was spoken.  When there is a high percentage of foreigners at any location, then English often becomes the default common language used.
 
UNFORTUNATELY, we have absolutely no pictures of Florianopolis or the beaches to post presently.  Consider this a victim of being robbed so many times and of our camera just recently.  Since we have only been to the beach on the nice days we have had here, we have not wanted the hassle of looking after a camera.  We are either often in the water, in the dunes urinating, or walking through the crowd people watching.  All of which is not conducive to having a brand new camera around.  The little money we bring we actually keep in our bathing suits even if we are in the water.  Unfortunately, this means that we have no pictures of this lovely island or the people so far.  If we go to the beach tomorrow, then I may bring the camera with me because I do want some visual memories of this place.
 
There have been some organized "circuit" parties for the holidays while we have been here.  We did not attend the first one which was held on December 30th because we wanted to go to the one on NYE.  The NYE party was held at a events center/reception hall not too far from where we are staying.  It is a converted large home with a very nice outdoor garden with a pool and wooded area.  The party was mainly outdoors, but there was a large reception hall which housed the DJs and the main dance area.  They had speakers outside by the pool too so you could hear the music outside without any problem.  The grounds were beautifully manicured.  I purposely used the word "were" because Ozell and I could not believe the amount of trash that had accumulated by the end of the party.  Plus when you have that many people trampling and dancing on the grass, walking through the edges of the gardens, and doing their "thing" in the woods the place was destroyed.  I don't fault the party goers nearly as much as the promoters who should have had at least one to two staff dedicated to just going around picking up the discarded cans, bottles, and cups.  There were NO trash cans provided anywhere.  The pool ultimately became one repository for the trash, and the stairs to different levels were full of bottles which made ascending or descending them a hazardous situation.
 
We got there around 11:15 pm because the gates were suppose to open at 11pm and we still needed one extra ticket.  We also wanted to be there for midnight since we had no other place to be.  The first DJ sucked.  She played the "happy fag music" that Ozell and I both disdain.  I wasn't even sure if I was going to take the ecstasy or not.  I was yawning but I knew that would not be a problem if I did take the E so I wasn't too concerned.  Ozell was also very tired since neither of us were able to grab a nap between coming back from the beach and getting ready for the party.  Nearing 2am, I decided to go ahead and take a pill.  It kicked in about a half hour later.  It was a mild and pleasant high for E, and it did put me in a dancing mood.  The second and headlining DJ was also better.  Not the best, but he did play much less tracks that contained vocals (one of our biggest complaints about happy fag music), and the songs that did contain vocals included songs like Pink Floyd's "Another Brick in the Wall" and REM's "Losing My Religion" which are infinitely superior to Madonna or Rhianna remixes.  For the next three hours I mainly hung around the main area and danced or mingled with the Brazilian we knew and his friends.  Ozell found himself between the main area and the dark woods at the rear of the property.  This area served a few different purposes.  It provided a place for some people to cool off and get away from the music, allowed people to do their drugs in a more private setting (although there were plenty people ingesting/inhaling their drugs in the main area also), gave the men more urinating options since their were only 4 porta-podies provided for a crowd of at least 500, and then also served as the "dark area" where sexual activity was taking place.  At the top of the wooded hill was a cleared area that also had a rickety wooden shed.  While the setting was pretty cool and almost surreal in a porn setting sense, again I was left thinking what a huge liability this area was for the promoters.  There were broken boards, holes in the flooring, and exposed nails and other dangerous items.  There was no lighting, and it was an accident waiting to happen with a bunch of naked, drunk, and drugged up guys snaking their way through this dilapidated structure.  But I guess no one was hurt.
 
We stayed until the sun came up a little past 6am.  The party was still going strong.  My E had worn off a while ago, but many people had now moved on to GHB and Ketamine.  "Water" bottles with little water were being passed around freely, and people were openly snorting from their K bottles.  Ozell and I were amazed at how trashed the place looked once the sun could provide enough light to see the grounds.  The promoters had to have lost money and any security deposit they had put down.  And again, it was their own fault and mostly avoidable.  Ozell was exhausted, and I was tired even though I knew that I was not going to be able to sleep until later in the day so we decided to head home.  We were able to easily catch a cab out at the main road and were back at the hostel by 7am.  I got a shower and tried to rest before the rest of the hostel came back from their night.  From what we heard, most of them had a horrible time with rain, wind, cold, and the police at a beach up north.
 
Well that is about it for now.  The last two days have been shitty weather wise so we have been trying to plan our next steps in our journey.  It looks like we are going to try to break up the bus trip to Icauzu Falls (14 plus hours) by spending a day or two in the city of Curitiba which is about a third of the way there.  Ozell has also been working on arrangements for Rio for Carnival.  We wanted to be in Salvador in the north for Carnival (because Rio is cliché and Salvador's Carnival is the largest in the world), but we cannot find accommodations except for some dormitory beds which are going for $100 US or more which is completely ridiculous.  We thought we had a tip for Rio, but there seems to be some uncertainty about that.  We very well may not be in a city that has a Carnival because Ozell and I are not willing to spend the kind of money it looks like it will require.  Remember Carnival is a week long event and most places are requiring that you stay for the whole week.  So at $100+ per person per night for a bed in a room with ten other people, we could each be dropping nearly $900 just for a place to rest our heads.  And this is not including any of the other money that would be spent on food and drink or tickets during this time.  We just cannot afford it.  We will see.
 
Ciao for now.  Hopefully we will have some pictures soon.
 
Sean