Friday, November 21, 2008

More Random Observations

The Milan Mullet: When I was touring Italy over four years ago, I was baffled by the popular, trendy hairstyle among the young guys, which was, for all intents and purposes, what we in America would call a mullet.  The only real deviation is that the head was usually shaved almost bald on the sides over the ears, still left a little longer on top with the characteristic long hair in the back.  I found it bizarre, especially since Milan is supposed to be one of the fashion capitals of the world and where many trends start.  I said then, such a hairstyle will NEVER catch on in the US... it's too much like a mullet.  Four years later, as predicted, it never caught on in the US and the faux hawk became the most popular cut back home, although even that seems to be fading now.  But here in South America, and especially in Chile, the Milan Mullet is in full force!  I won't even attempt to give precise numbers, but a large percentage of the young guys have some form of mullet. Some are traditional with the hair just a little long in the back; others are more drastic, with the shaved sides, curly top, and really long hair in the back.  We've even seen quite a few guys with a particularly strange (and unattractive) take on the mullet... they have long dreadlocks in the back where the "mullet" part of the hairstyle is, but the rest is just short, normal hair.  And it wasn't necessarily the grungy, hippy youth or the alternative, punk kids with such styles.  The Milan Mullet is simply "in" down here.  And after seeing it so often, you actually get used to it.  Heaven forbid!
 
PDA: What is it with Latinos and public displays of affection?  I've been to Mexico a few times so I'm no stranger to Latin norms and customs when it comes to PDA.  I would describe Lima as being very similar to Mexico in this aspect, but Chile took things to a whole new level.  I love that Santiago had lots of green spaces and parks throughout the city.  What I didn't like is that the parks were all full of couples devouring each other on the benches, the grass and everywhere you turn.  Get a fucking room!!!  Even walking down the street, guys would be all over their girls in a very clear and obvious territorial way.  Rather than genuine affection or love, which is one thing, the PDA here is more like the men marking their territory and letting other guys know, this is my woman, which is disgusting.  Some of the women even looked completely annoyed and disinterested, while the guys just held the girls heads and shoved their tongues down their throats.  I don't get it and I see it as nothing more than insecurity and machismo bullshit. 
 
Cajas: One of the interesting things about most places here in South America has been the Cajas (Cashiers).  Most businesses, whether it's a restaurant or bar, etc., have a cashier who handles all the money.  So if you're at a bar and want a drink, you first have to go to the caja and pay, then you receive a ticket, which you give to the bartender for your drink.  The same is true in restaurants; you go to the caja to pay your bill rather than settling the bill with your server.  This was much more common in Chile and Peru than it has been here in Argentina, but it still exists here as well.  It's often a more efficient system in the sense that you don't have to wait as long, especially in bars, because the bartenders are able to focus solely on making drinks instead of having to operate a cash register as well.  Obviously, there are restaurants back home with the same type of system, and like back home, the system seems to be less common in the more upscale restaurants.
 
Chilean Spanish: Before coming to South America, I was really excited to be able to use my Spanish again.  Although I studied it for years in school and should be pretty proficient, I haven't practiced or used it much in years, so my level of speaking and comprehension sucks.  After a couple of weeks in Peru, it's amazing how quickly a lot of it came back to me and how well I was able to communicate, although I mostly use it for the most basic of things like ordering food, asking directions, etc.  Through Peru and Bolivia, I felt more and more confident in my abilities and it became more and more easy to understand the locals.  Unfortunately, once we got to Chile, I experienced first-hand what the guide books warn you about.  Chileans do NOT speak Spanish!  I would liken it more to Chinese since that's about how much I can understand of it.  It's not just the speed at which they speak or their pronunciation of words; it's the complete substitution of many basic words and the addition of many new words that I don't know and that don't even come up in a language translator.  It became really frustrating at times and I had to constantly remind Sean, who would often look to me to translate, that I don't understand any more than he does.  It was bizarre because you always hear about the Spanish language being pretty universal, irrespective of the country.  Spanish is not like German, which has countless dialects and variations, but Chilean Spanish compared to the Spanish that I learned and understand, is like the difference between High German and Swiss German.  If you're really fluent in one, you can get by with the other, but if you're barely proficient in one, you're screwed.  Such was our experience in Chile.  Luckily for me, the people in Argentina actually speak Spanish.
 
Santiago COE:
Pack of Cigarettes: $2.50
McDonalds Value Meal: $4.00
Domestic Beer at the bar: $2.50 (for a fucking can that may or may not be cold; they don't have bottles!!)
Coffee: Don't get me started on the Nescafe! 
 
 
 

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